10/30/50/100W LED Applikation + Treiber (UC3843A)

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18 Antworten

  1. hilmanropiudin sagt:

    hi there… it is nice thread here…. but i am sorry my english is bad..
    would you like to help me how to protect this driver to be saved? and not very hot?

    i used this original circuit to drive 50 watt led, i set the VR at 32 volt… source input voltage to 12 volt battery 3A on my motor cycle… this circuit it so hot and was blown and also got smoke at IC UC3843 at least 15minutes while i driven the motorcycle..

    please help me how to make this circuit work better and safer to drive 50Watt led on my motorcycle 12v battery 3A…
    i’m waiting for your answer, email me please at hilmanropiudin@gmail.com
    best regard

  2. Mik sagt:

    Hi, thank you for sharing it. I wish to use a 100W LED rated at about 35V, using 12V-14V input. Is it possible with this circuit? Just a couple of questions more: it is possible to make it dimmable? Also, what are the power requirements for the resistors Rsense and R8? Thank you a lot for your answer.

  3. Matt090 sagt:

    Hi, thanks for this post!
    Even if im a bit late these DC boosters are still the same and i learned a bit more on how they work 🙂
    Can i ask what’s the meaning of R99 on this circuit? why would you need to give a constant bias to ISENSE? Also why do you use 9V for the voltage regulated one and the Vref for constant-current one?

    thanks.

    • 360customs sagt:

      As far as i remember, the bias is needed to have better regulation when in current limit mode. It also helped on stability issues in the original schematics. The original is 100k + 1k+10m here. It also is part of the slope compensation.

  4. tim sagt:

    I need to modify this to a fixed output voltage of 36.4v and 1 A constant current. Would you have any advice for what component values to use to accomplish this?

    • 360customs sagt:

      Several parts need to get changed. You’ll have to add the current limit loop, change output filter caps for higher voltage rating (50V) and have the voltage limit resistance increased (before the voltage trimming pot)

      Regards,

      Christian

  5. Steven G King sagt:

    Thanks for a lot of very useful information, I have built a 100w led light powered by a 18v lion battery from one of my power tools used the information off youtube DIYPERKS for power LED light……I blew the module up after building it into its mesh case so you circuits have been helpful, i have ordered a couple of more modules to play around with.
    I built the light as I needed a flood for use on forest and farm land that had a long switch on time from a 4500ah 18v battery
    Regards steve

  6. Juan Campos sagt:

    Hi 360Custom. My question is, why did you remove copper between in and out grounds? Thanks!
    Thanks for your sharing.
    Campos

    • 360customs sagt:

      This was meant for another current-sense-resistor – not needed in the end.

      Btw. if you change the inductor for a Coilcraft VER2923 (10-33uH) the converter does the full 150W with ease, even big step-up-ratios of >1:3 (i.e. 10V -> 35V).

      Regatta, Christian

      • Juan J Campos sagt:

        Really appreciate your sharing, because I am working with some lights that I am doing for my son and for me to use them in photography. I knew that this boosters needed something, but I did not know what and how to improve it. I am waiting a few of them and when I get them and make the changes I will tell you how they did it. Another question. I am using an LED of 100 watts, the modification that you have here works OK with 100 W or I need to do an extra mods? Thanks and again, and have a great day and week!

        • 360customs sagt:

          Hi Juan,

          it depends on your step-up-ratio. If you i.e. step up from 10V to 35V, you’ll noticethat the inductor will get very hot if it works at all. Changing the inductor for a Coilcraft VER2923 (33uH VER2923-333KL or AGP2923-333KL) works for me up to 150W. If you always going to run at high currents, the HA3588-BL might work as well (10uH). Higher current -> less inductance needed (but higher ripple).

          Regards, Christian

  7. Mike sagt:

    Hallo,
    vielen Dank für diese interessanten Ausführungen, sie bieten eine wunderbare Basis für weitere Projekte!
    Mir fiel allerdings eine kleine Diskrepanz auf:
    Betrachtet man die Spice-Schaltungen zum Konstantstrom und die Zusammenfassung, in der farblich markiert wurde, dann ist Diode D2/D3 unterschiedlich verschaltet. Im Spice liegt sie gleich hinter dem Spannungsteiler VR1 / R3 und beeinflußt sowohl FB direkt, COMP über R1 und den VR2. Im colorierten Plan liegt die Diode dagegen direkt vor FB, davor kommt VR2 rein, und *dahinter* liegt R1(R20) zu COMP.
    Davon dürfte, da an der Diode doch der typische Spannungsabfall vorliegt, nur eine Fassung stimmen, nehme ich an.
    Ist es korrekt, hier die Spice-Fassung zu nehmen?
    Besten Gruß!
    Mike

    • 360customs sagt:

      Hallo Mike,

      danke für die Anmerkungen. Beide Schaltungen sind equivalent bis auf die Beschaltung von R1 an COMP. Beides wird funktionieren – die SPICE-Schaltung ist zu bevorzugen. (Gedanklich die Diode zum Spannungsteiler schieben, dann wird es ersichtlich)

      Gruß Christian

  8. Thiago sagt:

    Hello , congratulations on your posting.
    I have convert identical. I want to use in electric motor 18 VDC x 8A through the 12 volt battery.
    What change in this circuit that could help me.

    Return wait .
    Thank you/

  1. 19. Mai 2014

    […] richtig nutzen. (Auch am Fahrrad per Step-Up-Wandler) Einige Ideen meinerseits dazu hier: 10/30/50/100W LED Applikation + Treiber – #360customs __________________ α β γ δ ε ζ η κ λ μ ξ […]

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